هیدرودینامیک در نزدیکی خلیج فارس، حمل و نقل نقرهای ساحلی و مورفودینامیک در دریای خزر

Measurements of wave transformation, beachface cobble transport and shoreline morphology change were undertaken over a 14 month period at Fatato Island, a cobble and sand ‘motu’ on the southeast rim of Funafuti Atoll, Tuvalu. Results document significant cobble transport and beach profile change on Fatato during a year in the absence of any significant high energy wave events. Changes in beachface volume were measured on 11 across-shore beach profiles, and show marked variations of + 7.1 and − 7.01 m3 between profiles and between survey periods. Net volumetric beachface change over the 14 month experiment was approximately zero, indicating a balance between erosion and deposition and net conservation of sediment volume on the ocean shoreline. Cobble movement was measured using Passive Integrated Transponder (PIT) tags inserted in 300 randomly selected clasts (mean b-axis = 75 mm) on the mid-beachface. Tagged particles were re-surveyed after 6 and 14 months, achieving 76% recovery, and identify large excursions of clasts on the beachface and dominant southwest alongshore transport, with an average net movement of 68 m after 14 months. A simple agent based probabilistic model was developed to simulate cobble movement and explore the coupling between hydrodynamic and shoreline processes. Model simulations reveal: predominant south-westerly cobble transport is driven by mean wave conditions associated with easterly trade winds, and; long-period swell events that approach the reef from the south drive episodic north-easterly transport reversals and significant onshore transport that can strand particles on the upper beach. Results present the first observations of morphodynamic behaviour of an atoll motu and highlight the highly dynamic nature of motu shorelines under mean energy conditions. Such results challenge conventional perspectives that motu are storm adjusted landforms that require extreme events to stimulate geomorphic change and inform future projections of island change.